Back to civilisation-toilets with flushes, seats and sinks with working taps!!

Had the best nights sleep of the whole trip, I don’t think I moved all evening, walking down 2000m clearly enabled me to finally sleep. If only I’d had this kind of sleep yesterday I may have been less poorly! I did however wake up all worried about the poor trodden on dog left outside, worried that she’d have broken ribs!
I am so awake I even get my sleeping bag into its bag for the first time in about 5 days, such a relief!!! Head down to breakfast full of energy for once and what did I do, bloody trod on the dog! The poor thing, she was all curled up by the seats and I didn’t see her. Feel so bad! I fed her half my alpen bar to make up for it and let her sit on my lap.
I chose Tampa porridge for breakfast, it’s gross! What a waste of a meal. Little cliffetta broke my heart, she didn’t care about me, went off to the other group to get fed, how rude! Found out the loud annoying group from Australia weren’t all together. Father and son and then a single traveller, then a group of three friends. That’s got to be hard when the other 5 in your group are with friends and you are the only solo traveller, glad I’m with my group of independents! However she is so bloody loud, it’s like she’s trying too hard to be involved and noticed, and she would do my nut in! The tensions are showing in their group as well, the two separate groups of three are moaning about each other’s timings, lateness and generally making little digs and it’s only about day 3 for them. I am very lucky to be in our awesome Harry potter group!
So the Harry potter names that gragma and I came up with what seems like weeks ago:
Swiss and Pom the weasley twins,
gragma-dumbledore (the wise one)
roomy-hermione (everyone likes her),
me-professor mcgonagall (it’s the teacher in me, although not sure I liked being such an old character),
hagrid need I say more,
mr miyagi-mr weasley,
mini miyagi-Ron weasley,
indie-mrs weasley (she was mistaken for mr miyagis wife earlier in the trip, with her Indonesian looks and his Japanese roots),
mr bean-neville (the nice guy of he group),
Mexican-voldermort (it’s the quiet mysterious ones!),
kiwi-ginnie weasley (another quiet talented one),
ex pat-madame pomfrey (she is a doctor after all),
Lead guide Passang -snape (although there is nothing nasty about him but he is integral to our trip as snape was to every movie),
The three assistant guides, Draco, malfoy and Crabb! Just because here are three of them,
and finally luna because she is just so special!!
It was a fun time naming everyone and I will never see Harry potter movies in the same light!!
So off we head once more, chilly morning so started in full waterproofs but soon got hot and ended up in shorts and t shirt. Everest for the first time had the wind blowing in the opposite direction, It’s weird seeing the snow blown the ‘wrong way’! To use my excess energy up I say namaste to everyone we pass, must be over 100 times. I reckon I had about a 94% reply rate! The small things to pass the time hey. I am more positive today after the hell of yesterday. I have talked to kiwi and indie and they would do Kilimanjaro with me if we can find a good cost and date. Positive plans! Roomy has blisters on her feet that she burst and treated this morning but she isn’t walking very comfortably. At least it’s on the way down they have become bad. Going to be a long day for her though. I realised today that our guide hasn’t spoken to me since he sent me down the mountain yesterday apart from briefly saying am I feeling better. Maybe he was annoyed I went back up the mountain I don’t know, but he does seem to be avoiding speaking to me? Or can he sense is as bloody annoyed he didn’t really bother to help me? I chatted to ex pat, roomy and gragma a lot today. Roomy is thinking of getting a campervan and touring Australia. Of course I encouraged it!! Although she is only 21 so has her life ahead of her. I do like gragma, he is so lovely and doesn’t bitch or moan just listens and chats. I should learn from him! His children are awesome table tennis players and compete for Australia. He is their and the teams coach so gets to travel around with them. Pretty awesome. His boys are in china at the moment competing or promoting or both can’t quite remember which. Quick pace today but it is downhill, even the uphill parts we whizz past other groups who are struggling, with our oxygen filled lungs! We have a long break at a village by a monastery. This is the place the group at our last tea house moaned about. The town is lovely, awesome bakery, a few shops and the views of Everest are superb. We had hot chocolate at said tea house and well the toilets are luxury! Flushing toilets, sinks with taps and mirrors! No idea what they were moaning about and boy do they have some treats in store in the next few days!
We could see a fire in the valley ahead, Passang tells us that it is the cremation of one of the Sherpas who died in the avalanche. It’s very moving to see the smoke rise up in front of Everest.
At the tea house we met two Londoners who have been travelling for a few months. The bloke however is ill and can’t even walk to the shop without wanting to throw up. Ex pat gives him some drugs but he has already booked and paid for a helicopter to take them back to lukla so he can try and recuperate then try again to get the base camp. The helicopter was a mere $1000!
What a lovely drinks stop, very chilled and enjoyable. Befriended another doggie that we fed scraps too. We head off and back over the long bridges over the valleys. Good old gragma went across with no hands. He had a fear at the start of walking across bridges and the heights, and held on for dear life to both hand rails and cut his hands doing so, so to walk across without holding on was awesome! We passed a dead yak on the way. Horrible to see, it was just laying there lifeless on the path with its eyes open. Poor beast.
At lunch it was boiling so we even aired our smelly sweaty feet for an hour. I saw a yak hearder go past and commented on how nice it was that he was letting the yaks go at their own pace and not hitting them, as everyone turned and looked he bloody whacked the yaks so hard, and everyone laughed at the irony after my comment! Hagrid was desperate for wifi contact and shopping so he didn’t stop for lunch and went off early with luna. He must of left a good hour ahead of us so you knew people would try to catch him after lunch. Luna is the slowest walker in the world. This lunch stop had one of my favourite toilets, a hay long drop. No dirt, no smells just a simple hole and hay dropped in it! I’m so weird about toilets now. There were some village kids next to the tea house so I got my bubbles out and blew them over their way, they were watching with intrigue so I gave them my last bottle. Job done! Last part of the walk until we are back to namche. Ridiculous that it takes 2 days to get back but 10 days to go up! Madness. Gragma informs me that lots of men are checking my legs out, well I’ll take that as no one in the UK will bother so good for me! We pass a yak with a wig on, how cool, and a bright red one at that. Nice to see the hearders having some fun. As you watch the world go by on the walk you notice the change in scenery as you come back down, butterflies fluttering around again, flowers adding colour to the views and bins once more! It is however so dusty on the track and we are all filthy, not that we were particularly clean! It took me, roomy, mr bean and gragma an hour and 40 minutes to get back down to namche, most of the group had shot off miles ahead. I’m not that fussed about wifi and would like to enjoy the scenery on one of the last few days before Kathmandu and it’s pollution is all we see. We did however have to put up with mr beans running commentary all the way down. ‘Mmmhhh steep, mmmhhh nearly there, nice view’…..aaaahhhhhh!
Back to namche and it was nice to see civilisation again. The room looked bright and airy, clean and comfy. The toilets looked luxurious with sinks to clean our teeth in. We all laugh about how our standards dropped dramatically over the weeks. This tea house didn’t seem luxurious 12 days ago when we last stayed here!
Roomy nearly breaks our being dirty pact. She’s talking madness about having a shower, it’s ok though as I manage to convince her it’s a pointless exercise and how nice will the shower in the hotel be in Kathmandu after 15 days!
After a quick change of clothes into town we head. I buy some souvenirs, go on wifi, went to get some nice jewellery for my mum but mr miyagi and I clearly had different ideas on what is a nice necklace as these were cheap and cheerful not a 70th birthday present. Back in the bakery and meet up with hagrid, gragma, roomy, ex pat and the weasley twins. All on free wifi and drinking beer! Think the men will have a good few beers over the next few days, hoping they are happy drunks.
At dinner roomy is sick and can’t eat, heads off to bed early. We watch the movie Everest, well I say movie, they don’t have movies out here they are documentaries! It’s from the same year as the book I read so interesting to see another perspective. Very sad story. I write some postcards, chill a bit but am left alone at 9pm when everyone is in bed??? I do wander down the street to get free wifi and see if my mum has replied. The streets are deserted at night, very different feel to namche, the odd cak passing but otherwise very quiet. One day to go then we fly back to Kathmandu and a clean, comfy bed. I can not wait!!

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